St. Vitus' Dance

★★★
5.9
175m
|
TRAD

An excellent 6 pitch climb up the Apron's north buttress. The most common start is to begin with the first two pitches of South Arete, then move along Baseline Ledge to the bottom of the third pitch. After pitch six, either rap off via the South Gully Rappels or continue to the top via any linkup of several excellent single pitch routes.

Pitch 1

5.7
30m
This pitch's grade is flagged as UNCERTAIN
This pitch's length is flagged as UNCERTAIN

Start up an easy but dirty crack system, using as many tree branches as jams, to reach Lower Baseline Ledge. This pitch is the same first pitch as for South Arete

StyleTRAD
Grade5.7
AnchorGear
Length30m

Pitch 2

5.8
30m

Continue up on your choice of 5.8 cracks on the left side of Lower Baseline Ledge, then scramble to the base on the obvious splitter handcrack up the middle of the buttress.

StyleTRAD
Grade5.8
AnchorGear
Length30m

Pitch 3

5.9
35m

Climb the classic, spitter hand crack, which widens toward to top to fists below a good belay stance.

StyleTRAD
Grade5.9
Length35m

Pitch 4

5.9
30m
This pitch's length is flagged as UNCERTAIN

Head up and right from the anchor to a short off width/chimney. Take this up to another stance below an overhanging fist crack.

StyleTRAD
Grade5.9
AnchorGear
Length30m

Pitch 5

5.9
20m
This pitch's length is flagged as UNCERTAIN

This shorter pitch takes you through a couple short but strenuous sections of fist jams to an anchor at a tree.

StyleTRAD
Grade5.9
AnchorGear
Length20m

Pitch 6

5.4
30m
This pitch's length is flagged as UNCERTAIN

Take the path of least resistance up and left, eventually reaching a large grove of trees and the South Gully Rappels.

StyleTRAD
Grade5.4
AnchorGear
Length30m

Resources

  • Squamish Rockclimbs
    Page 260

Areas